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Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 wrapped on Sept. 27, with collections and presentations from major houses and smaller labels. Hypebae’s favorites included Glenn Martens’ final Diesel show, Moschino’s debut under Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, and runway collections by Prada, Fendi, Gucci and others. The source is an editorial selection, not an official ranking of the week’s shows.
Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 wrapped on Sept. 27, with Hypebae selecting shows by Prada, Diesel, Fendi, MM6 Maison Margiela, Sportmax, Gucci and other labels as its season standouts. The roundup captures a week of runway collections, performance-led presentations and creative leadership changes, including Glenn Martens’ final Diesel show and the Moschino debut by Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo.
At Diesel, Martens marked his departure after six years as creative lead with a show that brought performance into the audience. Hypebae reported that the designer worked with Marseille-based collective (LA)HORDE, with 200 performers initially seated among guests before joining the action ahead of the finale. The publication described the presentation as an ode to pleasure; that characterization reflects its editorial reading of the show.
Prada’s Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons built their SS27 collection around the skirt, varying its materials and how it was styled. Hypebae noted crystal embroidery, crinoline layers and organza outer shells, paired with pieces including thick sweaters, structured shirts and bra tops. At Fendi, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s sophomore collection moved from lace, embroidered and pastel-toned undergarments to looks inspired by Italian performer Raffaella Carrà. Its presentation placed models in a mirrored structure drawing on Luciano Fabro’s artwork Cubo di specchi.
Other selections emphasized distinct approaches to dressing and staging, much like London Fashion Week street style. Demna’s Gucci show, titled “The Shop,” used a functioning store setting with changing weather effects and bossa nova music; Hypebae highlighted squared silhouettes, exaggerated shoulders and prominent horsebit details. MM6 Maison Margiela paired its collection’s unconventional styling with a Havaianas collaboration, while Sportmax presented lightweight, semi-translucent pieces in response to heatwaves. The roundup also included Dhruv Kapoor’s “PRESENCE” collection and its PUMA collaboration, Louise Trotter’s third Bottega Veneta collection, and The Attico’s tenth-anniversary presentation.
Debuts and Departures Define SS27
The week brought several points of change alongside the seasonal collections. Martens’ Diesel show served as a farewell after six years, while Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, the Sunnei designers, made their Moschino debut. Hypebae said Moschino’s runway included 400 commuters walking alongside models. These presentations made changes in creative leadership visible through the shows themselves, though the roundup does not establish what the changes will mean for the labels’ longer-term direction.
The selections also show how designers used format and styling to frame their clothes. Gucci turned its runway into a staged retail environment, Fendi set its audience opposite a mirrored box, and Diesel incorporated performers into the crowd. Alongside those productions, collections such as Prada’s skirt-focused lineup and Sportmax’s sheer, lightweight tailoring presented more direct explorations of silhouette and materials. Together, they offer a snapshot of different ways labels approached SS27, rather than a measured account of the season’s commercial reception.
A Week Across Milan’s Runways
Hypebae described this edition as balancing major luxury houses with a growing calendar of smaller, more intimate presentations. Its overview also pointed to sheer layers and bright colors as recurring features during a week that coincided with hot weather. Those are the publication’s observations about the shows it covered, not a tally of every collection presented in Milan.
The roundup spans established names and newer creative appointments. Among the details it highlighted were Blumarine’s crystal-caged UGG clogs and MM6’s Havaianas flip-flops, reflecting the continued presence of footwear collaborations in the season’s presentations. The article also directed readers to its separate coverage of London Fashion Week SS27, but gave no comparison of the two cities’ schedules or collections.
““an ode to pleasure in the most exaggerated of ways””
— Hypebae, describing Diesel’s SS27 collection
Reception Beyond the Runway
Hypebae’s article is a set of editorial favorites, not a complete schedule or an industry-wide assessment. It does not provide attendance figures, sales results, audience response data or independent evaluations of the collections. The source also does not specify the future plans for Diesel following Martens’ departure, or describe how the new Moschino creative direction will develop beyond this debut.
Some descriptions in the roundup, including its assessment of which looks or moments stood out, are subjective. The cited production details and collection features are attributed to the publication’s report; broader claims about the season’s influence or reception cannot be established from this material alone.
Creative Directions After SS27
The immediate next step for readers is to follow how the collections and leadership changes develop in later seasons. Diesel’s next show will take place without Martens as its creative lead, while subsequent Moschino presentations will give a fuller view of Messina and Rizzo’s direction. Hypebae’s roundup does not announce dates for those shows or name Diesel’s next creative lead.
For the SS27 collections themselves, the source offers a runway snapshot rather than information on retail availability or campaign plans. Further reporting would be needed to establish when individual pieces will reach stores and how the labels’ audiences respond.
Key Questions
When did Milan Fashion Week SS27 wrap?
Hypebae reported that Milan Fashion Week SS27 had wrapped by Sept. 27, 2026, when its roundup was published.
Which show marked Glenn Martens’ final Diesel collection?
Diesel’s SS27 show was Martens’ final collection for the label after six years as creative lead, according to Hypebae.
Who made their Moschino creative director debut?
Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo of Sunnei made their debut at Moschino with the label’s SS27 presentation, the roundup says.
What were some of the other shows Hypebae highlighted?
The editorial selection also featured Prada, Fendi, Gucci, MM6 Maison Margiela, Sportmax and Dhruv Kapoor, among others.
Is Hypebae’s list an official ranking of every show?
No. It is an editorial selection of favorites and does not claim to rank every Milan Fashion Week SS27 presentation.
Source: rss
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